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What the two numbers mean
The first number is how close the model is to the original
% how close to original. Ranges, between 90-60. No proxy model is ever 100%, so 90% is the best you can get.
90-80= really close to the original, but has slight differences (poses, clothing, shape, size)
75-60= more of an artistic reimagining of the original model - sometimes better than the original - especially if it has a high detail number.
The second number is how detailed the model is
This isn't a rating of the quality of the actual digital file, just the quality of detail that will show on the printed model.
10 = extremely detailed
9 = very detailed
8 = moderately detailed
7 = has some issues, but still fine
6 = won't win any awards for details but will work in a pinch
Buying Guide
First and foremost, understand that these are proxy models - designed to be used in place of the commercial plastic models. If it's imperative that you have an exact copy of the commercial models, you would probably be better off just purchasing it from GW. Every proxy has slight variations from the original design so you'll never get a perfect match. If it's important to you that they match, stick to 90s and 85s - that's the absolute closest you'll get to the commercial models. To most casual observers, these look identical to the commercial models and only someone very familiar with that commercial model will spot that it's a proxy.
If you're okay with artistic re-interprations of commercial models, you won't be disappointed. We don't have any mediocre files on here like you'd find on thingverse or other sites. The basic quality standard for the 75s, 70s, and 65s is this: would we print these out and use them ourselves as the main proxy of the model?
In most cases the 65/10s are the best models on the site - usually significantly better than the commercial versions, so if it's more important to you that you have an amazing model vs an exact match, pay attention to the 75, 70 and 65s with 10 quality.
Lastly, there are some 3D scans on the site. The upside to 3D scans is it's an exact match of the model, but it usually comes at the cost of quality. 3D scanners just aren't up to the task of scanning highly-detailed 1 inch models just yet. Some creators will scan the model and use that as a baseline to build a new model from scratch - some of the 90/10s on the site are created that way. But, in general, you see a 90/8 or 90/7 that's probably a scan that's decent enough to print out and use but some of the details will be a little muddy. Frankly, these muddy details are only visible if you hold the model a few inches from your face. You won't be able to see these on the gaming table anyway so if your main goal is to get models on the table that look as close as possible to the originals, then the 90/8s and 90/7s are a great choice.